The French say of the English that we have an obsession with drinking old wine.  The UK’s consumption of Bordeaux and Burgundy (wines which are traditionally bought young, but reach their peak after many years cellaring) is the largest by value in the world. With UK sales of Bordeaux in 2006 up 40% on 2005 (according to the Conseil Interprofessionel du Vin de Bordeaux), our desire for the wine from these regions shows no signs of abating.

Perhaps it’s something to do with our proximity to France, but from a local wine retailer’s perspective at least, Kent certainly seems to have an insatiable appetite for these age-worthy wines.  So rather worrying for the Kentish wine consumer then, is the recent crisis over the seemingly random accelerated ageing of some wines from these regions, particularly White Burgundy.

‘Premature Oxidation’, a process where some - but not necessarily all - bottles within a case of wine age far faster than expected, is affecting 5% of White Burgundy according to the Bureau Interprofessionel des Vins de Bourgogne.  Others say that this is a conservative estimate with certain vintages (1995 and 1996) being far worse hit.

There are many theories but little agreement over the causes of the problem.  Cork quality, insufficient use of sulphur (a necessary additive in wine) and the wine-maker’s desire for wines which taste better younger are listed among the suspects. With no consensus over the cause, the risk that this may affect future vintages cannot be ruled out.

What does all this mean for the consumer?  The safest buying decisions appear to be either to buy a wine which is good young and drink it, (e.g. Vincent Girardin’s White Burgundies, which are relatively widely available, great value for money and approachable young - his Meursault Vielles Vignes from the un-remarkable 2004 vintage is excellent at around £20); or buy your wine mature from a merchant whom you can trust and return the bottle if the wine is out of condition. 

Ironically, recent stellar vintages such as 2005 in Bordeaux and Burgundy have led to an explosion in demand for these wines and consequently astonishing price increases, whereas fully mature equivalent wines, but from more modest vintages are often no more expensive to buy and enjoy now.

IRENE RIZZA
FIVE REASONS WINE
www.fivereasonswine.co.uk